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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.